Patent Application
20130289136
This invention relates to a cosmetic active ingredient that comes as an articulated glucan polymer that is obtained from Manihot esculenta and to its use on the skin for a tightening effect.
The invention also relates to the process for producing this active ingredient, the cosmetic compositions that include it, and a cosmetic treatment process for a skin-lifting and skin-smoothing effect.
To combat ugly manifestations of cutaneous aging, today there is a broad range of cosmetic products that are to meet requirements for both long-term and immediate results.
This is why, in addition to being endowed with anti-ageing active ingredients that reinforce the cutaneous tissues for permanently reducing the marks of time, these cosmetic care products generally also integrate tightening ingredients, which form a three-dimensional mesh on the skin surface and provide an instant feeling of the effects as well as instantaneous smoothing and lifting rejuvenating surface effects. The skin is thus toned, stretched, and smoothed instantly, and it appears visibly sublimated and younger.
There are several categories of skin-tightening cosmetic agents.
First of all, tightening agents of synthetic polymer type are known, but the latter have numerous disadvantages. They are in particular adhesive and often difficult to formulate because they are only soluble in alcohol.
It is also possible to use certain proteins that are obtained from plant raw materials. These proteins have the advantage of being obtained from natural raw materials and are water-soluble. However, certain cosmetic companies may desire not to use proteins.
More recently, natural carbohydrate-based tightening agents have been developed. The patent FR-2882366 describes in particular cross-linked carbohydrate polymers, obtained by cross-linking reaction on the primary alcohol group of the carbohydrates. However, the active ingredients that are described are not very stable in aqueous medium and therefore cannot be formulated in all of the types of cosmetic compositions.
Furthermore, the patent FR-2908135 also describes a process for the production, starting from natural materials that are rich in carbohydrates, of saccharide polymers that have good tightening effectiveness. However, with certain plant raw materials, the saccharide polymers that are obtained are not physically stable in the presence of conventional cosmetic ingredients, such as certain preservatives (for example, phenoxyethanol) or stabilizers of cosmetic formulas (such as ethylhexylglycerin or pentylene glycol).
There is therefore still a need for a new cosmetic active ingredient that has an instant and instantaneous cutaneous tightening effect, remedying the drawbacks of formulability of the tightening agents of the prior art.
To respond to this, this invention proposes using a particular saccharide biopolymer obtained from Manihot esculenta.
In particular, the purpose of the invention is the use of at least one articulated glucan copolymer and copolymerization agents obtained from Manihot esculenta as cosmetic active ingredients having a cutaneous tightening effect.
Advantageously, this saccharide biopolymer has an instant and instantaneous tightening effect. Its structure in the form of an articulated and pre-organized three-dimensional network of high molecular weight is anchored to the skin surface and quickly forms a viscoelastic and film-forming film that is capable of spreading out and adapting perfectly to the microrelief for an instant lifting and smoothing effect.
In addition to its effectiveness, the active ingredient according to the invention can be integrated in a broad range of formulations.
It is recalled that the polymers are substances whose structures result primarily in the repetition of units of low molar mass, called monomers, connected to one another by covalent bonds.
A polymer of natural origin or that is obtained from monomers of natural origin is called “biopolymer” within the scope of this invention.
“Glucan polymer” or “glucan biopolymer” is defined as meaning a glucan copolymer and copolymerization agents (at least one copolymerization agent, preferably two).
“Articulated polymers,” in contrast to linear polymers, are branched polymers. Certain monomers have branched structures or certain monomers have the property of being able to be bonded to at least three other monomers during the polymerization stage. An articulated polymer is therefore a polymer that is formed by elements that can move owing to their bonds. The articulations of the glucan polymer promote the anchoring to the skin surface and the formation of a film-forming viscoelastic film.
The object of the invention is also a specific cosmetic active ingredient that comes in the form of an articulated glucan biopolymer and copolymerization agents obtained from Manihot esculenta as well as its production process.
According to another aspect, the objects of the invention are also cosmetic compositions including between 0.01 and 20% of an articulated glucan biopolymer obtained from Manihot esculenta. These compositions can come in all forms allowing application by topical means.
Finally, the invention also has as its object a cosmetic skincare process, designed to stretch and to smooth the skin instantaneously, comprising the topical application of a composition that contains at least one articulated glucan copolymer and copolymerization agents obtained from Manihot esculenta. This invention is now described in detail.
According to a first aspect, the purpose of the invention is the cosmetic use of an articulated glucan biopolymer and copolymerization agents obtained from Manihot esculenta as a skin-tightening cosmetic active ingredient.
In particular, the purpose of the invention is the use of an articulated glucan polymer that is obtained from Manihot esculenta as an active ingredient for the production of a cosmetic composition designed to produce an instant tightening effect of the skin.
The particular saccharide polymer according to the invention is capable of being strongly anchored to the skin surface and being spread out there so as to adjust perfectly to the cutaneous microrelief so as to form a continuous and lifting film.
Its adhesion capacities result in particular from the presence of numerous hydroxyl groups on the sugar chains that establish multiple hydrogen bonds with the intercellular lipids of the Stratum corneum, and very particularly like the ceramides, owing to their amide groups and their hydroxyl groups.
The use of an articulated glucan biopolymer that is obtained from Manihot esculenta as a cosmetic active ingredient on the skin therefore makes it possible to quickly form a highly elastic film on the cutaneous surface and thus to provide instantaneous tightening, smoothing and anti-wrinkle effects, both on the face and on the body, on young or mature skin.
Also, in addition to their characteristics of effectiveness, the specific saccharide biopolymers of the invention have the advantage of being able to be incorporated in different types of cosmetic formulas. Actually, they are soluble in water and in ethanol at 20%, they are stable physically in the presence of preservative-type or stabilizer-type cosmetic ingredients, not sensitive to variations of pH and temperature, and they do not have the drawbacks of synthetic polymers, which drawbacks are adhesive and shining effects on the skin.
Also, the purpose of the invention is specifically the use in a cosmetic composition of a cosmetic active ingredient that comes in the form of an articulated glucan polymer obtained from Manihot esculenta, with said active ingredient and/or said composition being designed to smooth the microrelief, fill in the wrinkles, tone and/or stretch the skin.
According to a particularly suitable embodiment, the purpose of the invention is the use of an active ingredient as described below.
The invention also relates to a particular cosmetic active ingredient that comes in the form of an articulated glucan copolymer and copolymerization agents obtained from Manihot esculenta.
The alliance of the inherent properties of Manihot esculenta sugars, in particular glucans, and different specific characteristics of the copolymerization agents makes it possible to obtain an articulated three-dimensional glucan network that is capable of forming on the skin surface a film that is resistant and cohesive but nevertheless endowed with a high flexibility, characterized by significant film-forming and viscoelastic properties.
Actually, the copolymerization agent makes it possible to obtain flexible articulations of the three-dimensional network that impart the tightening, film-forming and spreading-out properties of the polymer. Finally, the degree of copolymerization plays an important role in the resistance and the cohesion of the film.
Preferably, the ratio of the content of molecules obtained from Manihot esculenta relative to the content of copolymerizing agents is greater than 55%.
The active ingredient according to the invention has a mean molecular weight of between values of 7,000 and 300,000 Da, preferably a mean molecular weight of 74,000 Da.
The active ingredient according to the invention can come in the form of clear liquid that is yellow in color. It can be defined by at least one, preferably all, of the characteristics disclosed below.
The level of dry materials of an active ingredient according to the invention (measured by running a sample with a given initial weight through the oven at 105° C. in the presence of sand until a constant weight is obtained) can be between 50 and 180 g/l, preferably between 80 and 120 g/l.
The pH (measured by the potentiometric method at ambient temperature) can be between 3.0 and 5.0, preferably between 3.0 and 4.0.
Determination of the Total Sugar Content
The metering of the total sugar content can be implemented by the DUBOIS method (DUBOIS, M. et al. (1956), Analytical Chemistry, 28, No. 3, pp. 350-356). In the presence of concentrated sulfuric acid and phenol, the reducing sugars provide a yellow-orangey compound. Starting from a standard range, it is possible to determine the total sugar level of a sample.
The total sugar level of an active ingredient according to the invention is preferably between 32 and 117 g/l, and even more preferably between 52 and 78 g/l.
The total sugar content can also be expressed in terms of percentage relative to the dry material. It is preferably between 43% and 95%.
The characterization of carbohydrates is determined by means of several analyses:
The HPLC analysis of molar masses provides the following results:
The composition of simple sugars of the active ingredient determined by ionic liquid chromatography is 100% glucose.
The action of a-amylase releases approximately 40% glucose that is present in the active ingredient according to the invention.
This enzymes cuts the α-1,4 bonds between two glucose molecules. Thus, 40% of the glucose molecules are bonded at α-1,4 only; they do not have branches.
The HPLC analysis shows that after hydrolysis by α-amylase, there are only monosaccharides and disaccharides, corresponding respectively to free glucose and to two glucose molecules bonded at α-1,6, i.e., at the beginning of a branch. The hydrolysis of the α-1,4 bonds by amylase was complete.
The active ingredient according to the invention has:
The active ingredient according to the invention consists of glucans with a mean molar mass of 74,000 Da. These polysaccharides contain glucose chains bonded at α-1,4 and having branches at α-1,6, approximately 30%.
The active ingredient according to the invention as described above can be obtained by a process comprising at least the series of the following stages:
The two enzymes that are used for the two successive enzymatic hydrolysis steps are carbohydrases. Preferably, they include α-amylase, β-amylase, glucoamylase, cellulase, amyloglucosidase, β-galactosidase, β-glucanase, inulinase, pectinase, xylanase, arabanase, hemicellulase, rhamnogalacturonase, polygalacturonase, pectinesterase, hemicellulase, and galacturonase.
The hydrolysis stage makes it possible to recover Manihot esculenta glucans.
The two copolymerization agents that are used and that have at least one unsaturated ethylene group are selected from among polyacrylates, polymethacrylates, polyvinyl compounds, and polyallyl compounds.
Preferably, the ratio of the content of molecules obtained from Manihot esculenta relative to the content of copolymerizing agents is greater than 55%.
The polymerization initiator can be selected from among photoinitiators, redox agents and thermal agents.
This process makes it possible to obtain an articulated glucan biopolymer that comes in the form of a three-dimensional network that has an instant skin-tightening effect and that can be easily formulated because of its compatibility with the other components of the cosmetic compositions.
It should be noted that the use of two enzymes and carrying out two enzymatic hydrolysis steps is necessary for the implementation of the process. Actually, tests carried out by the implementation of the process of Example 1 (by changing the hydrolysis stage for each test) starting from two carbohydrases A and B show the importance of carrying out two hydrolysis steps for obtaining a tightening and industrially producible product, i.e., which meets the requirements of formulability imposed for integrating a cosmetic composition (color, liquid, resistance, etc.). The results that are obtained are presented in the table below:
This invention also covers the cosmetic compositions including at least one articulated glucan biopolymer obtained from Manihot esculenta, in particular an active ingredient as described above, in different galenical forms, adapted to administration by a cutaneous topical method.
These compositions can come in particular in a form that is selected from among the group that consists of an aqueous or oily solution, a cream or an aqueous gel or an oily gel, in particular in a pot or in a tube, in particular a shower gel, a milk, an emulsion, a microemulsion or a nano-emulsion, in particular oil-in-water or water-in-oil either in multiple form or containing silicone, a lotion, in particular in a glass or plastic bottle, or in a metering bottle or aerosol, an ampoule, an ointment, a foam, or an anhydrous product, preferably liquid, pasty or solid.
These compositions are preferably compositions containing between 0.01 and 20% by weight of an active ingredient that comes in the form of an articulated glucan biopolymer obtained from Manihot esculenta, preferably between 1% and 7%.
These compositions comprise, in addition to the active ingredient, a physiologically acceptable and preferably cosmetically acceptable medium, i.e., which does not cause unacceptable sensations of discomfort for the user, such as redness, tingling, or prickling.
The compositions according to the invention can contain as adjuvant at least one compound that is selected from among preservatives, emollients, emulsifying agents, surfactants, moisturizers, thickeners, conditioners, matting agents, stabilizers, antioxidants, texture agents, luster agents, solubilizers, pigments, dyes, perfumes and solar filters. These vehicles are preferably selected from among the group comprising the amino acids and their derivatives, the polyglycerols, the esters, the polymers and derivatives of cellulose, the lanolin derivatives, the phospholipids, the lactoferrins, the lactoperoxidases, the stabilizers that are based on sucrose, vitamin E and its derivatives, natural and synthetic waxes, vegetable oils, triglycerides, unsaponifiables, phytosterols, plant esters, silicones and its derivatives, protein hydrolyzates, liposoluble/water-soluble esters, betaines, aminoxides, plant extracts, saccharose esters, titanium dioxides, glycines, and parabens, and even preferably from among the group that consists of butylene glycol, steareth-2, steareth-21, glycol-15 stearyl ether, cetearyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, natural tocopherols, glycerin, sodium dihydroxycetyl, isopropyl hydroxycetyl ether, glycol stearate, triisononanoin, octyl cocoate, polyacrylamide, isoparaffin, laureth-7, a carbomer, propylene glycol, glycerol, bisabolol, dimethicone, sodium hydroxide, PEG 30-dipolyhydroxystearate, capric/caprylic triglycerides, cetearyl octanoate, dibutyl adipate, grape seed oil, magnesium sulfate, EDTA, a cyclomethicone, xanthan gum, citric acid, sodium lauryl sulfate, waxes and mineral oils, isostearyl isostearate, propylene glycol dipelargonate, propylene glycol isostearate, PEG 8 beeswax, lanolin oil, sesame oil, cetyl lactate, lanolin alcohol, ricin oil, titanium dioxide, lactose, saccharose, low-density polyethylene, a salty isotonic solution.
Examples of such adjuvants are cited in particular in the Dictionnaire CTFA (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook published by the Personal Care Product Council).
Of course, one skilled in the art will ensure that possible active or non-active complementary compounds and/or their quantities are selected in such a way that the advantageous mixing properties are not, or essentially are not, altered by the addition considered.
Advantageously, the articulated glucan biopolymer that is obtained from the Manihot esculenta according to the invention is stable in aqueous medium and in ethanol at 20%, and it has a very good compatibility and resistance with the above-mentioned adjuvants of the preservative or stabilizer types.
The compositions according to the invention, when they are applied on the skin, make it possible to produce an instant tightening effect. They can be used to smooth the microrelief, fill in wrinkles, tone and/or stretch skin visibly and quickly for an instantaneous impact.
For this purpose, the target of the invention is a cosmetic process for human skincare, designed to smooth the microrelief, fill in the wrinkles, tone and/or stretch the skin, comprising the topical application of a composition that comprises an articulated glucan copolymer and copolymerization agents obtained from Manihot esculenta, in particular with a composition that contains between 0.01 and 20%, and even between 1 and 7% by weight of an active ingredient that comes in the form of an articulated glucan biopolymer that is obtained from Manihot esculenta according to this invention.
A nonlimiting example of the process for producing the active ingredient that comes in the form of an articulated glucan biopolymer obtained from Manihot esculenta is presented below, as well as examples of compositions including such an active ingredient.
An example of a process for producing an active ingredient according to the invention comprises the implementation of the following stages:
The active ingredient that is obtained has the following characteristics:
The mean molecular weight of the copolymer is determined by the HPLC analysis on the following columns: Polymer Laboratories (Varian) PL aquagel-OH 60, aquagel-OH 40 and aquagel-OH 30, and an RI detector. The use of reference molecules makes it possible to calibrate and to evaluate the mean molecular weight of the glucan polymer.
The quantities indicated are provided in percentage by weight.
This creamy, white emulsified gel has a pH of 6.7.
It can be obtained by the implementation of the following stages:
The quantities that are indicated are provided in percentage by weight.
This fluid white emulsion has a pH of 6.
This emulsion can be obtained by the implementation of the following stages:
The quantities that are indicated are provided in percentage by weight.
This creamy, white creamy gel has a pH of 6.5.
This gel can be obtained by the implementation of the following stages:
The quantities that are indicated are provided in percentage by weight.
This thick white emulsion has a pH of 5.4.
It can be obtained by implementing the following stages:
The quantities that are indicated are provided in percentage by weight.
This colored, flexible and creamy emulsion has a pH of 5.6.
It can be obtained by implementing the following stages:
Lotion
The quantities that are indicated are provided in percentage by weight.
This white liquid emulsion has a pH of 6.2.
It can be obtained by implementing the following stages:
The quantities that are indicated are provided in percentage by weight.
This creamy, foam emulsion has a pH of 6.
It can be obtained by implementing the following stages:
The object is to compare the cosmetic formulability and the tightening effectiveness of copolymers of Manihot esculenta carbohydrates obtained from two copolymerization agents.
The cosmetic formulability is evaluated by observation of the compatibility of the product that is obtained with a conventional cosmetic preservative (phenoxyethanol type).
The cosmetic effectiveness is determined by analysis of the tightening effect.
Manihot esculenta 1
Manihot esculenta 2
Manihot esculenta 3
Manihot esculenta 4
Manihot esculenta 5
These results show that the Manihot esculenta carbohydrate biopolymer produced with two copolymerizing agents has a good compatibility with the phenoxyethanol preservative and the desired tightening effectiveness.
These in-vivo tests have as their object to illustrate the invention by showing the instant effectiveness of an articulated glucan biopolymer that is obtained from Manihot esculenta on the skin.
The active ingredient that is used for these studies is the one of Example 1.
The cosmetic composition that is used in vivo is the one of Example 2.
This study has as its objective to evaluate in vivo vs. a placebo the tightening effect of an active ingredient according to the invention that is formulated at 4% in an emulsified gel for 30 minutes and 1 hour after a single application.
The study was carried out on two groups of healthy female volunteers:
To evaluate the biomechanical properties of the skin, the method by cutometry was used. Measurements were taken at the level of the forearm using a Cutometer®. Starting from the curves obtained, various characteristic parameters of the mechanical properties of the skin can be calculated. Among these parameters, the following were adopted for quantifying the instant tightening effect:
The operating procedure of the study is described below.
At t0, before the products are applied, two symmetrical zones are determined at the level of the forearms (one zone treated by placebo and one zone treated by the active ingredient according to the invention).
Measurements with the Cutometer® are taken at these two zones, and the products are applied.
Between t0 and t30 minutes or t1 hour, the volunteers wait in a temperature-controlled and hygrometry-controlled room.
At t30 minutes or t1 hour, after application of the products, measurements are taken again on the corresponding treated zones.
The results that are obtained for the zone that is treated with the active ingredient in percentage of variation relative to the results obtained with the placebo are presented in the table below:
It is noted that an active ingredient according to the invention, in comparison to the placebo, 30 minutes and 1 hour after a single application, increases the parameters of the tension of the skin: total elongation and at the same time instant elasticity.
This first study therefore shows well the instant tightening effectiveness of an active ingredient according to the invention that is applied on the skin.
This study has as its objective to evaluate in vivo vs. a placebo the smoothing effect of an active ingredient according to the invention that is formulated at 4% in an emulsified gel for 30 minutes and 1 hour after a single application.
The study was carried out on two groups of healthy female volunteers:
The evaluation consists in producing silicone-containing polymer impressions at the level of the forearms before and after treatment, and then in making an analysis by fringe projection (acquisition by volume of the impressions using a fringe projection device dedicated to the 3D measurement of the relief of the impressions). The parameters that are adopted for this study are 3D roughness parameters:
A reduction of these parameters is characteristic of a smoothing of the surface being studied.
The operating procedure of the study is described below.
At t0, before the products are applied, two symmetrical zones at the level of the forearms are determined (one zone treated by the placebo and one zone treated by the active ingredient according to the invention).
Impressions are made on each of the zones, and the products are applied. Between t0 and t30 minutes or t1 hour, the volunteers wait in a temperature-controlled and hygrometry-controlled room.
At t30 minutes or t1 hour, after the products are applied, impressions on the corresponding treated zones are again produced.
The results that are obtained for the zone that is treated with the active ingredient in a variation percentage relative to the results that are obtained with the placebo are presented in the table below:
It is noted that an active ingredient according to the invention, in comparison to the placebo, 30 minutes and 1 hour after a single application, reduces the 3D roughness parameters that are characteristic of the microrelief of the skin, Sa and Sq. This reduction signifies a smoothing of the microrelief of the skin.
This study therefore shows well the instant smoothing effect of an active ingredient according to the invention that is applied on the skin.
This study has as its objective to evaluate in vivo vs. a placebo the instant anti-wrinkle effect of an active ingredient according to the invention that is formulated at 4% in an emulsified gel for 30 minutes and 1 hour after a single application.
The study was carried out on 17 healthy female volunteers with a mean age of 62±2 years.
The evaluation consists in making 3D acquisitions by fringe projection onto crow's-feet before and after treatment. The parameters that are adopted for this study are:
A reduction of these two parameters is characteristic of a smoothing of the relief of the surface that is being studied and a reduction of wrinkles.
The operating procedure of the study is described as follows.
At t0, before the products are applied, two symmetrical zones are determined at the level of the crow's-feet (one zone that is treated by the placebo and one zone that is treated by the active ingredient according to the invention).
Acquisitions are made of each crow's-foot by fringe projection, and the products are applied.
Between t0 and t30 minutes or t1 hour, the volunteers wait in a temperature-controlled and hygrometry-controlled room.
At t30 minutes or t1 hour, after the products are applied, acquisitions of each crow's-foot are again made by fringe projection.
The results that are obtained for the zone that is treated with the active ingredient in percentage of variation relative to the results that are obtained with the placebo are presented in the table below:
It is noted that an active ingredient according to the invention, in comparison to the placebo, 30 minutes and 1 hour after a single application, smoothes and minimizes the wrinkles by reducing both the surface roughness (Sa) and the negative volume.
This study therefore shows well the instant anti-wrinkle effect of an active ingredient according to the invention that is applied on the skin.
Biopolymer Obtained from Manihot Esculenta on the Skin
Tests have also been carried out for evaluating the possible influence of different parameters on the effectiveness of the active ingredient according to the invention: the time, the metering, the treated zone, the formulation, and the age.
The active ingredient that is used for these studies is that of Example 1.
The cosmetic composition that is used in vivo is that of Example 2.
The objective of this study is to evaluate in vivo vs. a placebo the influence of time on the tightening effect of an active ingredient according to the invention that is formulated at 4% in emulsified gel.
The measurements were taken at the level of the forearms using a Cutometer® 30 minutes, 1 hour, 2 hours, and 4 hours after a single application.
The study was carried out on four groups of healthy female volunteers:
The operating procedure is the one described in Item B.I/.
The results that are obtained for the −Uf and −Ue parameters are summarized in the table below:
It is noted that the active ingredient according to the invention has a significant tightening effect as soon as 30 minutes after a single application. This effect reaches its maximum 2 hours after the application and is again significant after 4 hours.
The objective of this study is to evaluate in vivo vs. a placebo the influence of time on the anti-wrinkle effect of an active ingredient according to the invention that is formulated at 4% in an emulsified gel for 5 minutes, 30 minutes, 1 hour and 2 hours after a single application.
3D acquisitions by fringe projection onto crow's-feet have been carried out before and after treatment.
The study was carried out on 17 healthy female volunteers with a mean age of 62±2 years.
The operating procedure is the one that is described in Item B.III/.
The results that are obtained for the parameters Sa and negative volume are summarized in the table below:
It is noted that the active ingredient according to the invention tends to reduce the characteristic parameters of the cutaneous relief as soon as 5 minutes after a single application and becomes significant after 30 minutes. This effect reaches its maximum 1 hour after application and extends up to 2 hours in a significant way.
The objective of this study is to evaluate in vivo vs. a placebo the influence of the active ingredient dose according to the invention that is formulated with emulsified gel on the tightening effect.
The measurements were taken at the level of the forearms using a Cutometer® 1 hour after a single application.
The study was carried out on three groups of healthy female volunteers:
The operating procedure is the one described in Item B.I/.
The results that are obtained for the −Uf and −Ue parameters are summarized in the table below:
It is noted that the active ingredient according to the invention has a significant instant tightening effect upon 2% of use and that this effect increases with the dose. Under the conditions of this study, it reaches its maximum at 7%.
The objective of this study is to evaluate in vivo vs. a placebo the instant tightening effect of an active ingredient according to the invention that is formulated at 4% in emulsified gel.
The measurements were taken on different cutaneous zones (forearms and face) using a Cutometer(R) 1 hour after a single application.
The study was carried out on two groups of healthy female volunteers:
The operating procedure is the one described in Item B.I/. The results that are obtained for the −Uf and −Ue parameters are summarized in the table below:
It is noted that the active ingredient according to the invention is capable of increasing the characteristic parameters of the tension of the skin on the face and on the body, 1 hour after a single application.
The objective of this study is to evaluate in vivo vs. a placebo the influence of the formulation on the instant tightening effect of an active ingredient according to the invention.
The measurements were taken at the level of the forearms using a Cutometer® 1 hour after a single application.
The study was carried out on three groups of healthy female volunteers:
The formulas that are used are the following:
Emulsified Gel Formula:
Emulsion Formula:
The operating procedure is the one described in Item B.I/.
The results that are obtained for the −Uf and −Ue parameters are summarized in the table below:
It is noted that the active ingredient according to the invention is capable of increasing in a significant way the characteristic parameters of the tension of the skin 1 hour after a single application, in different types of cosmetic formulas.
The objective of this study is to evaluate in vivo vs. a placebo the instant anti-wrinkle effect of an active ingredient according to the invention that is formulated at 4% in emulsified gel on different age groups in comparison to the placebo, 1 hour after a single application.
3D acquisitions by fringe projection of crow's-feet were carried out before and after treatment.
The study was carried out on two groups of healthy female volunteers:
The operating procedure is the one that is described in Item B.III/.
The results that are obtained for the parameters Sa and Negative Volume are summarized in the table below:
It is noted that the active ingredient according to the invention significantly reduces the characteristic parameters of the wrinkles of the skin 1 hour after a single application regardless of the age of the volunteers.
The results of these different tests therefore show that the active ingredient according to the invention does indeed have a quick and significant tightening effect at 30 minutes and 1 hour after its application and that is still significant at least 4 hours afterwards. This tightening effect is dose-dependent, and measurable on the face and the body, where it is formulated in a gel, emulsified gel, or in an emulsion.
The active ingredient according to the invention also has instant smoothing and anti-wrinkle properties that make it possible to visibly fill in wrinkles on young and mature skin.
These tests have as their objective to show the resistance and the good compatibility of an active ingredient according to the invention with cosmetic raw materials. The active ingredient that is used is the one of Example 1.
A study of pH resistance was carried out at 20° C. for a range of pH varying between 2 and 10.
The results that are obtained are presented below:
It is noted that the active ingredient according to the invention remains stable and that it is not sensitive to pH variations.
A study of temperature resistance was carried out at the pH of the solution for temperatures ranging from 40 to 80° C. for 2 hours.
It is noted that the active ingredient according to the invention remains stable and that it is not sensitive to temperature variations.
A study of solubility in different water/ethanol mixtures was done at 20° C. and at the pH of the solution.
The table below summarizes the compatibility of the active ingredient according to the invention with ethanol.
It is noted that the active ingredient according to the invention is stable at least up to 20% ethanol.
A study was carried out to estimate the resistance of 5% of an active ingredient according to the invention relative to the raw materials used in cosmetics.
The results are presented below:
It is noted that the active ingredient according to the invention is stable relative to the cosmetic raw materials that are commonly used.
Finally, a study has also been carried out to estimate the resistance of an active ingredient according to the invention in different cosmetic formulas.
The active ingredient according to the invention has been introduced at 5% in the following cosmetic formulas:
The results that express the physical resistance of these different formulas containing 5% of an active ingredient according to the invention are presented in the table below. The resistance is characterized by an absence of precipitation of the active ingredient, an absence of creaming or phase shift of the formula.
These results show that the active ingredient is stable in different cosmetic formulations.
These different tests therefore show that the tightening cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention, in addition to its effectiveness, also has performances in terms of formulability: it is stable in water and in ethanol at 20%, it is not sensitive to variations in pH and in temperature, and it is compatible with the materials that are commonly used in cosmetics.
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1061257 | Dec 2010 | FR | national |
| Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind | 371c Date |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/FR2011/053182 | 12/23/2011 | WO | 00 | 6/24/2013 |
