Apparel is supplied to the marketplace by a series of steps that includes the step of cutting out a pattern from a sheet or web of flexible fabric material. The ‘cutting out’ step in producing “custom” or “designer prototype” apparel is usually done manually with a hand held cutting tool after the apparel pattern has been defined on a sheet or web of fabric. Mass production techniques include cutting multiple layers at the same time with hand held power tools, or by more automated computer controlled machines using various means to cut the fabric including lasers, water jets, or knives. While these more automated systems may be used for “custom supply chains”, hereinafter referred to as “Unit order of one” (UO1), automated means are typically not cost effective (productive) for such custom supply chains because the machine systems cannot cut out UO1's (single fabric layer) fast enough to justify their high investment. On the other hand, custom or design prototype supply methods are very tedious and labor intensive and are consequently expensive for the final consumer and/or cannot respond quickly enough to an impatient marketplace.
State of the art automated laser cutters can cut out a pattern, such as the jeans pattern depicted in
It is the primary object of the subject invention to produce a system which can quickly and economically produce a “Unit order of one” (UO1) in such manner as to be cost-effective.
It is a related object to develop a system which produces a product from a custom apparel pattern in electronic format.
It is still another object of the subject invention to provide a suitable backing onto which fabric may be placed, as electronic images are directed onto the fabric.
It is yet one more object of the subject invention to provide such a backing which is particularly adapted to be used with roller cutters or scissor cutters.
In accordance with the objects of the subject invention, a system is developed which converts custom apparel patterns in electronic format to identifiable apparel pieces ready to sew into a custom article of apparel. The system consists of a projector, which receives digital data; and which projects a true image of the complete apparel pattern onto a surface over which a web of fabric has been positioned; further the system provides the means such as a person to identify, and cut out the pattern pieces, by following the projected pattern lines, and by using various means including roller cutters, or scissors cutters.
In one embodiment, a cutting surface provides stable positioning for webs of fabrics by utilizing a “self healing” polymeric sheet for a roller cutter. A vacuum is created behind the sheet within a plenum by a simple blower fan. A further alternate means provides a cutting surface which consists of a porous short bristle “carpet” like material behind which a vacuum is created within a plenum by a simple blower fan. The backing provides stable positioning for the fabric web which can then be cut by a scissor cutter.
With reference to
The present invention focuses on a means to project the true shape pattern image 5 of an article of apparel onto a planer surface so that the pattern pieces 4 may be identified and cut out and packaged for subsequent assembly by a means such as sewing.
With reference to
A web of fabric 6 is pulled quickly across a cutting surface 7 and held in position by clamping or vacuum or other means.
The electronic image 5 of an apparel pattern and piece identification 8 are projected onto the surface of the fabric web by an electronic projector 9 coupled to a computer in which resides the electronic image of the pattern.
A human cuts out the pattern pieces by moving a cutting tool 10 along the pattern lines 11 that are projected onto the fabric web.
The human affixes a piece identification code to each pattern piece and removes the pattern pieces from the cutting surface.
The pattern pieces with identification are then packaged for subsequent assembly steps.
In a more sophisticated embodiment, the human of steps 3) and 4) above may be replaced by laser cutters of other comparable means, which are calibrated to cut the projected pattern on the fabric web. A physical embodiment of the present invention is depicted in
The fabric web is held in position by means of clamps along the edges of the web, or continuously across the web surface by means of vacuum 12 underneath the web. The cutting surface may be oriented in a horizontal plane or, in the case of a continuous holding method, angled for better ergonomic cutting position.
The cutting surface may consist of a “self healing” polymeric material in conjunction with a “pizza wheel” cutter 13 commonly used for apparel cutting today. An alternative cutting surface, which may be employed, is a backing material from which short bristles protrude. This enables scissors, either manual or automatic to be rapidly moved along the pattern line without changing the position of the fabric.
The method so described provides superior operational economics at equivalent cut quality to current methods, either as a separate business entity in the overall custom apparel supply chain or as an integral step in such a supply chain.
The present application claims the benefit of priority of U.S. Provisional Patent application No. 60/566,123, filed Apr. 28, 2004; and entitled SYSTEM AND APPARATUS FOR CUTTING OUT CUSTOM APPAREL PATTERNS FROM FABRIC, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.
Number | Date | Country | |
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60566123 | Apr 2004 | US |